Alice to Uluru 8th-15th Nov

Alice Springs held us until midday on Saturday 8th November when we burst forth onto the tar again just as the night's rain did on the dry bed of the Todd river; we were both flowing once more. We headed into the West McDonnell Ranges, and stopped to walk into Simpsons Gap and marvel at the magnitude of these mountains.

Ellery Creek Big Hole provided the perfect camp spot for the night. With a beautiful water hole, plenty of skimming rocks, bbq's and a fire pit we were set. The axe that Matt had carried all this way was finally swung and we watched the magical flicker of flames as the stars twinkled overhead well into the night. Of course there was no leaving in the morning until the entire bank was cleared of eligible skimming (or in my case) throwing rocks and Ellery Creek Big Hole was just a little shallower. And no, I still can't skim a stone. Standley Chasm was our first stop (for those looking at a map we did have to backtrack as we were too late the previous day to view it at the best time), and the walk in on loose stones that graduated to huge boulders was great fun for the kids. Considering we all had thongs (Maori safety shoes for you Sam) on I did my best not to think about a hospital trip for any of the kids who were running ahead. We looked up at the sheer parallel walls of rock, glowing red in the midday sun, and we seemed so young and transient compared to these ancient parts of the earth. It's hard to believe that water can erode such deep crevices and gorges out of softer rock but I suppose that is the power of time. Glen Helen Gorge was our next stop and we enquired here about the condition of the road on the Mereenie loop which we intended to follow the next day. We were given the green light and settled a little to the North at Ormiston Gorge.

We set up camp and took the short stroll to the most majestic place. We didn't know what to expect, and as we rounded the corner and the beautiful clear, still water hole, surrounded by huge stone walls and sloped sand we all gasped (for me it was the sheer magnificence of the scene, for the kids it was the chance to splash and swim!). We climbed up into the folds of rock at the edge of the waterhole and watched the long shadows on the sheer walls of the gorge growing as the sun sunk further, the golds and browns mirrored in the still water below us. Devin, Kiama and I climbed to the lookout point the following morning and gazed on the peaceful spot from above before we set off. Despite the corrugations of the dirt road, we made a smooth start and were soon at Gosse's Bluff. This meteorite crater was originally 25 Km's in diameter and was caused by a million times the energy of the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima. Plant life was affected for 2 years following the impact and the land was altered forever. The comet impact site is much smoother after 20 million years of erosion but still totally cool to drive into. 154 km's of dirt road later, and we arrived at King's Canyon. The heat was like a wall of fire as we jumped out of the car, but we had to set up the camper to get to our bathers. We certainly earned our swim!

Our campsite was at the edge of the National Park so we had a constant view of the spectacular canyon and sat back in our chairs to watch it change colour as the sunlight seeped away from the landscape. The following morning was an early one as we set off for the Canyon rim walk at 6.30am to beat the heat. After the initial 200m incline (which Ruben ran up!) it was just gentle slopes and remarkable views of domed rocks and the massive sheer faces of the rock walls. About half way you descend into the Garden of Eden, with lush greenery and flowing water. 3.5 hours, 6 km's and only minimal whinging later we had conquered the Canyon and earned an afternoon by the pool and a milkshake in the air-conditioned cafe! I was so proud of all the kids, particularly the littlies, as some adults don't even attempt this long walk and chose the shorter option. It was a great effort all round! The night was not complete without a visit to the "Roadies Bush Band" at the "Outback BBQ". They got the kids up to perform with them, and then told them to grab their parents so we could participate (cringe!) but it wasn't too bad and a lot of fun. Wednesday 12th there was only 300km's between us and Yulara resort. We stopped to view Mt Conner, which we had been forewarned can be mistaken for Uluru, although it is much flatter on top. I felt sorry for this very impressive Mountain, because without Ayers Rock and the Olgas as neighbours it may receive more attention. And then, there it was, through the haze of 39 degree heat, the massive heart of Australia was on our horizon, growing with each passing kilometre. Despite every picture I'd seen, and other people's descriptions, I was not prepared for how massive the Rock is when you first approach it, even at 30 km's away. It was surreal to finally be at Uluru, and then the majestic Kutu Tjuta (the Olgas) came in to view in the distance and their silhouette was stunning. I didn't know where to look or what to photograph or video first. I collected myself before we drove into the campground and Matt and I set up in the sweltering heat whilst the kids stayed in the car watching Karate Kid. We hit the pool and watched Uluru at sunset from the Lookout in the campground (just a slightly elevated dune that gives a great view of Uluru and Kata Tjuta). Our first glimpse up close came the next morning when we arrived hoping to climb Uluru at about 7.15am. It really is spectacular, not as smooth as photos show, but intricate with so many folds and indentations when you get right up to it. Unfortunately the climb was closed due to rain the previous evening making the climb too slippery and dangerous. So, we all did the Mala walk that follows the base of Uluru for a short distance with the local Ranger informing us of culture, tradition and fauna and flora in the vicinity. After this I wasn't so sure I wanted to climb the Rock, knowing how much the safety of climbers worries the local Anangu community and their belief that it is not the right thing to do at this sacred place. I'd also had a close look at the trail leading up and was not so sure that Tayah and Ruben could make the climb, which is a 60 degree inclination at the steepest part. We hung at the pool during the heat of the day once more and then drove close for an amazing view of Uluru, with one of the last of the sun's rays peaking from between dark stormy clouds illuminating the fiery red rock. Stormy again overnight and the climb was closed once again, but we took the opportunity to do the Valley of the Winds walk in the cool, overcast morning. This takes you between the massive domes of Kata Tjuta to reveal a spectacular view, and experience so close to these incredible masses of rock. The highest point, Mt Olga is 100m higher than Uluru, and although they both extend 5km underground, Kata Tjuta extends 35kms across the land. The evening brought a pretty average sunset but made up for it with a brilliant light show. For at least half an hour lightning zig-zaged across the sky all around us, watching in anticipation from the lookout.

15th November - HAPPY 40TH BIRTHDAY DEBBIKINS!!!!

Climb closed again, and so I took the opportunity to walk the 9.7km around the base of Uluru. It was cooler, only 29 degrees, and overcast, and the distance just dissolved as I marvelled at the structure I was circumnavigating. Peace and quiet were mine and I savoured the time without my beautiful babes. Just me and the Rock. I looked up and thought of how many stories it could tell, of life lived and lost around it, of coachloads of tourists scrambling over it, of countless photographers capturing it and of so many, like me, humbled at the base of it. I felt I had completed a rite of passage after taking in the view all around Uluru and returned to the family to set off on our helicopter ride. Kiama, Tayah and I were in one helicopter and we followed just behind the others, flying around Uluru and then over to Kata Tjuta. Apart from 5 minutes in Queenstown, New Zealand, we haven't experienced helicopter flight, and it is such an amazing feeling and view! Although we had planned to, no-one wants to leave tomorrow, so I guess we're staying.