Kalgoorlie to Busselton, 26th Nov - 8th Dec

The wide streets of Kalgoorlie are lined with beautiful historic buildings (mostly pubs) and the pace is slow and easy. The mining culture is strong and the scantily clad skimpy waitresses in the bars reveal the blokish nature of the town. We took the trip down 36 metres into an original working mine (was more like 100 in working days) and learned more about the tough job miners endured. They were payed danger money for their 12 hour shifts in that cold, dirty mine and unfortunately most that came to make their fortune blew the lot each week on alcohol, gambling and Skimpies! The kids earned enough to buy a can of coke panning for gold in the Sovereign Hill style Mining Hall of Fame. We were enthralled by the amazing Super Pit, a massive open cut mine that is coming close to 500 metres deep. Several old mine shafts have been completely exposed by the massive opening and massive trucks move up and down the graduated and ramped edges, like busy working ants, digging, lifting, tipping and hauling tonnes of earth a day. Half of the money made from their gold find each day covers the cost of mining and the other half is pure profit. Although they appear to be Lego sized from the viewing platform above, the trucks are worth millions and the drivers earn around $100,000 a year. Don't worry, we have considered it as a new career move, but it involves shift work. At the Metropol Hotel we endured an obligatory beer and checked out the mine shaft (now covered with glass) that led miners straight up to the pub for a beer whilst on the job, which they paid for with their boss's gold. We were able to check out my Mum's childhood home but unfortunately my Dad's has been built over. We were sad to leave on the 26th as we'd grown very accustomed to living next door to the Moulton's, and our kids had certainly enjoyed playing with their 4 beautiful kids. They have been travelling for 8 months and were about to head across the Nullabor on their way home to Sale. We bid them farewell and headed to Esperence and its beautiful beaches. Unfortunately the weather turned on a storm and the heavy rain had us running for cover in a town caravan park rather than braving the Cape Le Grand National Park (with limited facilities) as we had planned. Wouldn't you know it after we had set up and huddled in our van watching a movie, the rain cleared and blue sky emerged from behind the clouds. Time for fish'n'chips by the ocean and a chance for the kids to paddle in the gently lapping waves and coat their feet in sand. Cape Le Grand National Park welcomed us the next morning and we settled for a site with an ocean view in Lucky Bay. There were toilets, showers, a BBQ and camp kitchen and a pristine beach with white sand and powerade blue water. Why had we paid $32 last night when here we had paradise for $15 a night? We stamped the pristine sand with our tyre tracks and drove right up close to the water on the beach around Lucky Bay to the natural jetty of rocks that extends out around 100 metres. The kids ran madly on the sand that literally squeaked as your feet landed on it. Despite the cool weather the kids swiftly peeled off their clothes and they danced with the waves that teased and tempted them to run closer and closer before retreating. Our one night stay turned into three as we just couldn't tear ourselves away. The kids were soon fishing with the neighbouring family from the huge smooth rocks just a short walk down from our campsite, and we all appreciated the bounty of fresh salt and pepper squid and herring BBQ'd straight from the ocean. Lucky Bay beach lured us back each day and Matt and I relaxed on the white sand and watched the kids sliding down the dunes that gently rose a little way back from the beach and its unbelievably blue water. In the afternoon we watched the local kangaroos hopping down on the sand and sifting through the dried seaweed for something that they enjoyed - not a sight we would have imagined! They were not shy and ventured right up to the van regularly hoping to find a willing camper to disobey the rules and give them a meal. Cape Le Grand National Park is also home to Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove and whilst they are worth a visit we still felt Lucky Bay was the pick of the crop. The first day of summer we drove further West and camped at Cape Riche, another beautiful beach side campsite where we were lucky enough to have another ocean view. We walked along the beach and the outcrop of low, flat rocks, gathering treasure in the form of shells, enjoying the warm afternoon sunlight and the slow pace of the beach in the second half of the day. With bellies hungry for dinner we returned to build a blazing fire and enjoy the warmth as the sunlight slipped away and the stars appeared one by one to freckle the dark night sky. Time was dissolving quickly and we needed to keep moving westward to the charming seaside town of Albany. We visited my great, great Grandfather Gillam’s home, Pyrmont House, a heritage listed beautiful old Victorian Tudor built around 1870. It was pretty special to know part of my ancestry threaded back to this part of the country. No visit to such a major port is complete without boarding a ship, so the kids stepped aboard the Brig Amity and crawled beneath the deck to imagine life as a sailor. We were recommended to head to the Squid shack for “the best fish'n'chips” ever, and after the 15 minute drive we were not happy to find it closed! Oh well, sandwiches again and on to Whale world, an original working whaling station. We were treated to a fantastic tour of each section of the station where unlucky whales were processed (cut up and cooked) for their oil until 1978. We don’t know which job is more dangerous or difficult, a miner, a whale hunter or a flenser (cutter). We saw the impressive skeleton of a pygmy blue whale. We were in to camp at Parry Beach later that evening, but we still managed to enjoy a fire and drift off to sleep with the soothing sound of the breaking waves on the shore. The Karri forrest beckoned and we drove to Walpole and walked amongst the massive Tingle Eucalypt trees on the "Valley of the Giants" walk. They had constructed steel suspension platforms that took you right up to the tops of these beautiful native trees, and even though I have bungee jumped before, I felt a little nervous as we swayed in the breeze (with the kids running carelessly ahead of us) so high above the ground. We found a lovely campsite in the Pemberton Caravan Park as Kiama had requested power for his Birthday the next day. Our newly purchased fishing rods were swiftly put to use at the Trout farm and the kids left grinning with satisfaction after having each caught their own freshwater trout- dinner! By the time the kids were in bed I had a moment to remember awaiting Kiama's arrival in hospital 10 years earlier. To all my fellow mothers, where has the time gone? 3rd December dawned: HAPPY 10TH BIRTHDAY KIAMA! Pancakes and presents, phone calls and best wishes from across the miles. We were pleased that our present of Derwent pencils was very well received. Later in the day when drooling over the precious coloured pencils Tayah said to Kiama, "they're so beautiful Kiama, when you die, can I have your Derwents?" Kiama came out of the van laughing and we joined him when he filled us in on her request. What does a 10 year old do on their birthday in Pemberton?- they climb the Gloucester tree, a 62 metre Karri tree. The only supports for your feet are 30cm steel pegs that are hammered into the trunk at regular intervals in a spiral leading to a cubby-house style lookout at the top, which was originally used as a fire lookout. Tayah, Kiama, Matt and I made it to the top, and Devin got a short way up and decided to get back down to the safety of the ground. It was a particularly scarey climb as there are no safety nets or chains. Ruben begged to ascend but was promptly denied. We stayed briefly to feed the local birds out of our hands and then moved on to a picnic by the Big Brook Dam, and then to inspect the Bicentennial tree, a similar set-up to the Gloucester, only more recent and 13 metres higher. We decided not to push our luck and settled with making it to the 25 metre point, despite the protests from all of the kids to go to the top (what have we started?). We squeezed out the last of the Birthday treats with a dinner at the local pub where Kiama indulged with the nachos he had been craving for weeks, and then back to sing Happy Birthday by the camp fire and watch Kiama blow out the candles on the cake we made on the camper stove in the fry pan! It was time to leave the forrest and head for the very corner of Western Australia's south coast. We headed down the Jewel cave and saw amazing limestone formations in this massive underground opening. They boast the longest straw (stalactite that is symmetrical and like a drinking straw) in any Australian cave, but the entire cave is impressive and all formed by water dripping through the ground over thousands of years. Once we were back at ground level we took another walk upwards at the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse (only 176 steps!), which is the tallest on mainland Australia and still operational. We looked out at the where the Southern, a much calmer and bluer body of water, and Indian oceans meet and felt like we were really on the edge of the country. After walking up a tree, down a cave and up a lighthouse let me tell you my legs were a little weary and I was happy to set up that night at Conto campground and relax by the fire. We bribed the kids with a packet of clinkers if they stayed in he van without interrupting us for 45 minutes, and sat by the fire with our wine, some cheese and the freshly cooked maron (freshwater crayfish) we had picked up that morning in Pemberton - heaven on a stick! After Lucky Bay, Conto was our second favourite campground with excellent fire drums for each spacious site and log seats and a table in a private bush setting that separated us from the world outside. The kids climbed the trees, kicked the ball and played with the fire, and we cleaned out the car and sat by the fire. Tayah did interrupt our relaxed schedule when she woke up with a very infected foot on the 5th December. We still don't know what was in there but she went to bed feeling fine and woke 12 hours later with a swelling that was turning whiter and growing by the minute and a dark red colour was creeping up her ankle. There was no avoiding it, we needed to drive the 20km to Margaret River to have it punctured and get antibiotics. What a place to have to drop into! No winery tour today though, we got back to our camp sanctuary and enjoyed our last day and night alone. The morning had arrived for us to meet Chris (Matt's brother), Linda, Kimberley, Josh and Sue (Matt's Mum) in Bussleton. The Beachlands Caravan Park we had booked into was even better than we had hoped with a massive kitchen metres from our van site and a heated pool, water playground and jumping pillow almost as close. The kids were in heaven! It was wonderful to be with family again after 6 weeks and we planned how we would best watch Chris competing in the Ironman Triathlon the following day. For those who are not familiar with this event it involves a 3.8km swim, 180km bike ride and then a 42km (yes, a marathon!) run. Chris anticipated this taking him 12 hours to complete. We were all up and excitedly waiting at the start of the swim by the Busselton Jetty at 6am the next morning, 7th December. We couldn't pick Chris out of the 1200 competitors but he knew we were there cheering him on, and taking in the spectacular view as the swimmers all headed out parallel with the 1.7km jetty (longest wooden structure in the southern hemisphere) elbows and feet splashing out of the deep blue water like a flock of seagulls. Chris emerged from the water after an hour and we watched him run into the transition area, mount the bike and race off for 3 laps of the 60km circuit. We were able to take photos and video and cheer him on at one corner of the loop and then found another spot to watch the run leg from, right in front of the beach. Each runner passed us 6 times as they completed the 42kms in 3 x 14km circuits. We cheered them all on and were amazed at their determination, their strength and their sheer stupidity! Although Chris explained after the race that he could have given up at many points due to physical pain, this was not evident as he ran past, with a constant smile on his face. We had the opportunity to run along side him for a short while and were really grateful that we were able to watch and support him competing in such an inspirational event. Of course the finish line was the highlight, as it was for Chris who dissolved into tears the moment he saw Linda and his children who met him metres from the finish. It was a magic moment to treasure to witness Kim and Josh running beside him as he crossed the line and held up his arms in triumph. We are very proud of his achievement, and his dedication and hard work over the last few years, and congratulate him on realising his dream and completing the event in 11hours 44minutes and 56seconds. We would also like to congratulate our very supportive sister-in-law Linda for enduring all that has been necessary in the lead up to his goal event ( behind every great Ironman there is a patient and understanding partner!)

Uluru to Kalgoorlie 17th-25th Nov

Monday 17th November brought no relief from the regular rain we were experiencing at Uluru. Fortunately it allowed us the spectacular view of waterfalls cascading down the sides of the Rock. The Great Central Highway that we planned to take down to Kalgoorlie was closed and needed several days to dry out so we decided to stay put rather than take the long option of driving double the distance back down to Port Augusta and along the coast. We were getting used to such a relaxed lifestyle and taking our opportunities to stay in bed and not get up and pack each morning. Matt had consulted further about the car’s overheating problem and was advised it was the radiator, so a new one was ordered to be couriered to us while we waited for the weather to change. Wednesday arrived, and with it our hope for an opportunity to climb Uluru. We had been waiting nearly a week for a clear forecast and had given up (even if it was clear for most of the day, it is closed if there is any possibility of showeres). It had been dry overnight and was a clear perfectly blue sky. We woke the kids at 5.15am (what an effort!) and made it to the sunrise lookout point to watch the Rock’s huge, dark form come to life with the first rays of the morning sun. The desert came to life brilliantly as Uluru stood proud and glorious, ready to mesmerise the coach-loads of tourists that continued to arrive at it’s base. We were soon disappointed as the gate was once again locked due to forecast thunder storms that would make climbing dangerous. I did have to ask the Ranger why the clear blue sky didn’t override the previous days forecast. He explained that they need to cover themselves just in case, but he indicated that it is evaluated each hour and could be open later. We returned to the campsite and found that the Sounds of Silence dinner we had tried to book for was planned for that evening. (It had been cancelled each night for the past week due to the weather). We were able to organise a babysitter and the clear sky kept us hopeful. We swam to escape the growing heat and I called to check the climb status just by chance and was told it had been opened. We were dressed in minutes and raced to the Rock.

It’s amazing how quickly my earlier hesitations about climbing dissolved as my adventure-seeking and mountain climbing instinct was awakened. I stuck closely behind Tayah in the lead and Kiama and Devin were then behind me and Matt was close behind Ruben at the rear. The tears were welling up in my eyes with every step, and it may seem absurd, but I was so overcome with excitement and happiness that I was climbing this spectacular natural wonder with my beautiful babes. It is an amazing incline but we started strong and very quickly advance to around the half way point of the first steep stage. Here the incline is 60 degrees, but the view is out of this world. Kata Tjuta stands gloriously ahead and other ranges come to view in the distance past the vase flat landscape.

Our enthusiasm was stronger than our aching muscles and we powered on. Tayah asked why I was breathing so heavy and Kiama asked if this is what it was like in Kokoda. It certainly was,. The wind appeared to be picking up and I was pretty nervous about the kids holding securely onto the chain. Kiama and I lost our hats and I quickly shouted leave it so that he wouldn’t instinctively step to get it. I managed to carefully move away from the chain and retrieve ours, but Tayah was not so lucky soon after. The danger of the situation was starting to bother me with each step, and I wondered if we were mad to have our children at this height without a harness. The wind just kept getting stronger and we would sit each time it picked up until it died down. I looked back at Matt and he said he didn’t feel safe with Ruben. Tayah and Kiama protested but we were going to head back down. We had achieved more than I had anticipated but getting to the top was not worth losing a family member for. We literally sat on our bottoms and slid down and it certainly took longer than it had to get up. I think we made it to about the three-quarter mark to chicken point. Not a bad effort Team Harris-Allan!!! Most importantly though, we all made it down safely. For me, the day couldn’t get any better, but we still had our dinner without the kids! We met the babysitter at a very nice room in the “Sails in the Desert” hotel and then the coach dove us out to a beautiful spot on an elevated dune, and we stepped off the coach to walk the edge-lit pathway to a pre-dinner drinks area. We sipped champagne, nibbled crocodile, ostrich and salmon canapés and watched the low sunlight casting the final red glow over Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

We were led to a further area with beautifully set tables, a large buffet servery and again soft lights surrounding the area and edging the pathway that led up to the toilet (thank God after all that champagne and the wine to come!) We were served soup for entree and then heaped our plates with delicious barramundi, roo, croc and salads. The wine and beer kept flowing, as did the conversation with our American, Scottish and Australian fellow diners. It is easily the most magic evening I have spent, and then it just got better. We thought we could see a magnificent sky full of stars, and then they turned every light off, blew out the candles and the sky exploded with millions of stars. Our New York friend, Jonathan, was blown away as he had never seen such a sky with the light pollution of his home city. Resident astronomer guided us through the night sky with his massive torch that actually threw a beam into the sky and then we were able to view Venus, Jupiter and the Seven Sisters through his amazing telescopes. It was unreal. He explained that it was the best sky for weeks and Matt and I smiled at each other knowing we had made the right decision to stay a few more days. Dessert was fabulous and we squeezed out the last moments of the evening, not wanting it to end. We both agreed it had been our favourite day of the holiday so far and Matt thanked his Dad for turning on such a beauty for us on the eighth anniversary of his passing. Clear weather gave us enough confidence to head down to Kalgoorlie on the 1000km of dirt road. We packed up early and drove out to Uluru for our final farewell, passing the ticket booth that displayed the climb closed sign once again. Drawing nearer to Uluru we saw that the gate was actually open and couldn't believe our luck. Our runners were all packed in the Camper but we had them out and quickly lathered on the suncream and I filled the pack with drink bottles. We decided to head up separately, so I set off with Kiama and Tayah and Ruben stayed safely with Matt. The plan was that Devin could climb with Matt when we returned. No time was wasted, and I had to work hard to keep up for the first half. We didn't turn around often, just rested when Tayah asked as her little legs tired the quickest.

Before we knew it, chicken point was just above us and we stopped briefly at this flat section, marvelling at the green grass growing in the trapped water in shallow dish-shaped craters on Uluru's surface. There were even small shrimp-like water creatures in the water holes (yes, water holes on the top of Uluru!) We pulled ourselves up the chain to where the easier part of the climb continues. Although still ascending, it is a gradual overall incline with lots of small channels and ridges to follow. We had a ball, almost running to the point way in the distance where we could just make out a few people cheering and holding there arms up in victory at a sign. Tayah and Kiama had taken off their shoes and were cooling their feet in the countless pools of water we passed so that they wouldn't burn on the Rock's surface. It's probably about twice the distance across the top as we had allready covered coming up. We were fortunate enough to have caught a fellow climber and helped each other out with photos at the heighest point, which is marked with a sun dial.

We had done it! We ran back to the top of the steep section, adrenalline fuelled and ready to tackle the way down. The cimb up had seasoned us and it didn't feel nearly as steep as we descended, although we did slide on our bottoms when the wind gusted. We waved to matt and he started walking up to meet us half way. Devin had decided not to climb again so Matt was going solo until Kiama decided he would ascend again to keep him company. Tayah and I felt a million bucks as we stepped down safely on ground. We watched Matt and Kiama reduce to the size of ants and then celebrated with water and chocolate. 26 years after Matt had first climbed Uluru he said it was magic, but harder than he recalled it being with 11 year old legs. We couldn't wipe the smiles off our faces as we drove away and headed out of the Northern Territory. it was only 300kms to Warakurna, but we had to lose the airconditioning (overheating again - the part matt had ordered didn't make it on the truck) and by the time we arrived it was about 38 degrees and a million insects covered us the moment we stepped out of the car. I opened the van to start getting something to eat and nearly cried. Red dust all over the floor, which I had anticipated, but also sweet chilli sauce leaking out of the fridge! We had not put things in as tight as that stretch of dirt road had demanded, but we would not make the same mistake twice. We did get to bed eventually, and in the morning the chaos of the night before had vanished. We checked out the Giles weather station and watched a weather balloon being let off. We only stopped in Warburton to break our 600km drive to Tjukayirla. Luckily the clouds kept the blazing sun away and cruised the day away, arriving relatively refreshed and in time for a good old yarn with the roadhouse manager and a relaxed dinner outside (no insects!), once the emus were put to bed. The manager had reared them from chicks and they were very eager to eat every insect off our car and van, and gave Tayah and Ruben a fright when they chased them, eager for a game. Up and off early the next morning to cover our last 300kms of dirt, and the overcast sky was a great relief. Laverton arrived and we celebrated the end of a long bumpy ride, how heaven is bitumin?

We stopped at Menzies and drove out to lake Ballard to see the amazing Gormley statues. It started to rain but we weren't put off and bravely walked out on the slippery mud to stand near the elegant steal bodies. As you can imagine, a wide, open slippery surface was too much for Devin to resist and soon enough we allowed them to strip off and roll around in it. Ruben was the only one that didn't want to "get yucky in the mud" We finally arrived at Kalgoorlie-Boulder, the town both my parents had lived in as kids (without knowing each other till they moved to Perth) and so it had extra meaning for me. And wouldn't you know it, we pulled in and just happened to be beside another family with 4 sons! (team Moulton from Sale). We got the kids in bed and stayed up discussing our adventures over a quiet glass or two. They were travelling for 8 months and had a 12, 10 and twin 4 year olds. We spent the next 3 days together and had a ball.