Flinders Rangers to Coober Pedy 30th Oct-2nd Nov

Thursday 30th we had a slow, easy morning, tossing over our recollections of the thunder and lightning during the night. Our site was beautifully shaded and we managed to encourage the kids to begin their travel journals after pancakes. The majestic redgums and dry creek bed enhanced their creative minds for sure! It was fast heating up and time to check out the resort pool (2 minutes walk from campgroud). We were virtually alone and the kids bombed to their hearts content! Feeling a little cooler and ready for a challenge, we headed up to the Wilpena Pound lookout. It was only a 1.5km walk, but the first part and the last .5km were a very steep ascent. The heat (probably around 35) and the flies took their toll on the littlens and Matt had to carry Ruben the last 400metres. Devin and Kiama left us in their wake and flew up. Our Kokoda muscles were re-employed and we savoured the view at the top of the mountains that are set in a perfect circle, creating the natural Wilpena Pound. We got down a lot easier than we went up, literally running all the way. I have never seen the kids faces so red! Saw 4 shingle-backed lizards ( 2 fighting- what a hoot!) on our return and headed straight for the pool ( did not pass go and did not collect $200). Despite the heat the kids continually asked "when can we light the fire?" Before it was cool enough we gave in and then they drove us nuts poking, prodding and throwing everything they could onto it, but they were bloody happy as pigs in ...! And sitting back with our beer and steak, I guess we were too!

Had to make our way on Friday 31st, but we were in no particular hurry. Drove out of the Flinders Ranges just after midday and the landscape certainly levelled out. The sky was overcast and so imposing because there is so much of it when there are no buildings or trees to fringe it. We stopped at Leigh Creek the neatest town I've ever seen (super new too, I think about 1980 it was started). Matt managed to contact Alice Springs Toyota and arrange a new radiator fan to be sent there for us as the car had been periodically overheating since Mildura, even in the cooler weather. Now, the fact that the car has never done this in its entire history and was serviced prior to the trip was a little unsettling to me as we were about to commence the Oodnadatta track, but I was not stressed. We passed through Lyndhurst and then Marree where the track began and warnings are posted on massive signs to carry extra water, fuel and food. A few kilometres in and it felt like we were the only people on the face of the earth; there was only the sky, barren ground (the track is practically camouflaged) and us. It began to rain just lighly and we thought great, it will keep the car cool. We drove to Coward Springs camp ground, and as soon as the camper was up the rain set in and didn't stop all night.

Hoping to make it to Coober Pedy in the cool of the morning we set off to conquer the last 67 kilometres of the Oodnadatta track. Everything was running really smoothly, until I could see the camper sliding out the side of the car in the rear vision mirror. Surely it was just Matt trying to frighten me by doing snakeys? Apparently not. The rain overnight had turned the track to super soft mud and we were like ice-skaters on a rink. Oh, and the temperature was up. Now let me just say that Matt never seemed alarmed, even when we needed to stop and use sticks to scrape the built up mud from the wheel arches (there was not much clearance!). He wasn't even concerned when we had to do it again, or atleast he didn't show it. I, on the other hand, felt a little sick. I suppose if we had become bogged we could have just set up camp, we had heaps of supplies. The kids didn't seem at all bothered (thank god for PSP's). The track improved a little after the second mud scraping, and we took some photos whilst we let the engine cool down. We willed those bloody kilometres down and somehow we made it to William's Creek. Time for a beer and a strong Cappaccino! All was good again as we surveyed the walls of the Williams Creek Hotel, completely covered with photos, messages, items of clothing and messages. It really is the in the middle of nowhere and there is nothing but the pub. The publican told us that her husband was currently away and she had no-one to send out to rescue anyone if need be. We explained what we had just experienced and asked what she suggested we do. The roads aren't closed she said and in a few hours the wind (which had really picked up) would dry them more, or rain could be blown over and they could get worse. Should we stay or chould we go? Well, we laugh in the face of danger, so of course we bloody went!....and we made it to Coober Pedy no sweat. Had the afernoon to explore some Opal shops in town and get a feel for the place. Can't say it's a beautiful town, really just thousands of piles of rubble. It is the world's Opal capital, and everything that has been dug up is now on the surface. Checked out a fantastic underground home, hand dug by three women over ten years, a little too cosy for me but a great way to beat the heat as underground is constantly 21-25. Had our first take-away meal of Pizza and an evening mine tour.

2nd November, and a full day in the Opal City. Nine days on the road and washing day had arrived. We took the kids to the mullock (waste rock and dust from underground mines) pile at "Old Tom's mine" and they fossicked around with their sieves for far longer than I could in the harsh sun. It proved to be rewarding and they all left with pieces of opal. Saw a "tunneling machine" and "blower" in action (mining tools) and it certainly looks like hot, dusty work. We heard that in the last 15 years, 5 or 6 people have made over a million in their opal finds, and good luck to them. Drove out to Crocodile Harry's Croc Nest. Harry, who died 5 years ago, was a German Baron, who left Europe for Australia and hunted Crocs in the Northern Territory before trying his luck in Opals. He had an eye for the ladies, and his home is decorated accordingly, a little Hugh Heffner-like. Apparantly he threw amazing parties out there and people came from all over, all leaving messages and clothing to decorate the walls of his home. Quite a unique batchelor pad. He was the strongest man known in the area and even up until he died could still throw a pick. Finished the day with a sunset view of the "Breakaways", uniquely shaped hills of white, red and orange about 30kms from Coober Pedy. They reminded me of that magic sand that you shaped under water (the kids toy- does anyone remember that?), and they were certainly worth the drive.

And the adventure continues all the way to Alice.....